Friday, January 08, 2010

A perfect pear.


Pork Tenderloin with Pears and Shallots


Growing up, pork was never a regular guest on the dinner menu. It wasn't that we wouldn't eat it, we just didn't. Sure we'd eat ham and bacon every so often, and spare ribs too, but I can't recall my mom ever serving us pork chops or a roast loin. I guess pork just wasn't really her thing. I can understand why though. If overcooked it can be unbearably dry, like chewing on sawdust. For the longest time I was convinced I didn't like pork. I have to confess, I used to say I was kosher to get out of eating it at friends' houses. I got away with this for years. Oh the shame! And then came a day, just a few years back, that I ordered pork for the first time in a restaurant. The description of the dish was like autumn on a plate and I knew I had to try it: a bone-in double pork chop on a bed of sweet potato puree with an apple cider jus. It was a revelation - moist and succulent, tender and full of flavor.What had I been missing all these years?!

It took me many years of cooking before I finally turned my attention to the pig. I have to admit that I still don't cook with it often. But when I finally do, I always wonder why I don't experiment with it on a more regular basis. Pork can be deliciously moist and marries well with a myriad of flavors, especially autumnal ingredients in my opinion. It also happens to be very budget friendly and the lean cuts are even waistline friendly!

The January issue of Bon Appetit featured this recipe as a Quick Party Dish, seeing as it can be prepared and served within 35 minutes. The timing held true and dinner was on the table with ease. The pork is simply prepared - rubbed with olive oil, garlic, thyme. The pears and shallots get the same treatment, then they're pan seared while the pork roasts in the oven. The pan is then deglazed with some stock, butter, flour and pear nectar. The resulting jus is velvety with a whisper of sweetness from the pear, a perfect accompaniment to the woodiness of the thyme. My only caveat with the recipe is that they left out salt and pepper completely. I wasn't about to risk a bland meal by forgoing seasoning the loin. I also seasoned the shallots and pears with sprinkle of salt and pepper while they seared in the pan. I think this is a necessity that not only brings out the flavors of each component, but cuts through the sweetness of the pears. Another inexplicable direction is to use an ovenproof skillet when there is no indication of actually putting the skillet in the oven at any point! So no, your skillet does not need to be ovenproof! All in all, this was a simple and quick dish, full and balanced in flavor and definitely elegant enough for a dinner party.

Bon Appetit!

Pork Tenderloin with Pears and Shallots - adapted from Bon Appetit, January 2010 
  • 3 tbs olive oil
  • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 1 tbs chopped fresh thyme plus fresh thyme sprigs for garnish
  • 1 1/4 pound pork tenderloin
  • 3 large shallots, each cut into 6 wedges through stem end, peeled
  • 3 unpeeled small Bosc or Anjou pears, quartered, cored
  • 4 tsp butter, room temperature
  • 2 tsp all purpose flour
  • 1 1/2 cups low-salt chicken broth
  • 3/4 cup pear nectar
Preheat oven to 475F. Mix oil, garlic and chopped thyme in a small bowl. Rub mixture over pork, shallots and pears. Season with salt and pepper. Heat large skillet over medium-high heat. Add pork and shallots; brown on all sides, turning, about 7 minutes. Transfer shallots to platter. Transfer pork to baking sheet (do not clean skillet). Roast pork until thermometer inserted into center registers 145F, about 10-15 minutes.
Meanwhile, add pears to same skillet and cook over medium-high heat until brown on cut sides, turning once or twice, about 4 minutes. Transfer pears to platter (do not clean skillet).

Mix butter and flour to a paste in a small cup. Add broth, pear nectar and butter mixture to same skillet; boil until sauce thickens, scraping up browned bits, about 7 minutes. Slice pork; arrange on platter. Surround with pears and shallots. Drizzle sauce over pork. Garnish with thyme sprigs.

Grades:
Difficulty: Easy
Flavor:  A-



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